Crossing the border, the unexpected!

We departed early that day from Mauro's eco-camping Tsonek, we were supposed to show up at the boat at 8.15 because the boat departed at 8.30. So at 7 am we were ready to do a night ride of 8 or so kilometers towards the southernmost point and the end of the Carretera Austral.

The riding went quite smooth despite the fact we didn't see a shit of where we were going. A bit before our destination the sun rised in the sky and the light revealed the amazing O'higgins lake and the small and expensive boat that would take us to Candelario Mancilla, a small carabineros spot were they would give us the permit to leave Chile and enter Argentina.

After unloading all the load and getting the bikes on the boat we were ready for a sail of 4 hours surounded by a group of noisy Argentinians that were on their way to a glacier. Despite the noise, the weather was damn marvelous, and the color of the lake plus the mountains made it an amazing picture, almost no cloud in the sky and no wind made it the perfect day for crossing the lake and seeing the glacier.

After the 4 hours, at 11 am, we reached our destination, and in a hurry by part of the crew of the boat we got our panniers and our bikes, I got everything I had, and so did Seba, or at least that was what he thought. We said our good byes to other bicycle tourers who were on their way to the glacier and to Mauro and Julie, the guys from the Tsonek eco-camping. After a couple of pictures and good byes, the captain of the boat yelled the “all on board” call and the boat started to leave. Right when the boat was about 20 meters away from the pier and turning around to take point towards the glacier, Seba said; “I forgot my tent on the boat”, wait what?, really?. Yeah, he did. He forgot his tent on the boat and the boat had already left the pier and despite the yelling and the waving we did nobody from the boat saw us and the tent took destination towards the glacier to come back 6 hours later with the rest of the people that would do the crossing towards Argentina. Some police officers, a.k.a. carabineros, were on the pier with us and laughed at Seba's missery but at least gave a bit of a hope, they said they had a radio up in the border station where we could call the boat and ask some of the other cyclists if they could bring the tent to Argentina so Seba could continue with the riding for that day, we would share tent if we were able to call the boat.

We went our way to the Carabineros post which was 200 metres away from the pier but uphill all the time. The road from now on got sooooo bad that most of the way towards the post we were forced to push the bike because riding was impossible. On the way up, some clouds started to show up and a light rain started to fall. Weather can change pretty fast at this latitudes. Right at the carabineros post the bad news arrived. The radio communication with the boat was a lie, or at least that was what a carabinero there told us. He also said that there was no point in calling the boat as they wouldn't come back for a tent and that we had to wait. Despite we explained 3 times that the goal of calling to the boat was for asking if other cyclists could take the tent with them, the carabinero kept telling us the boat wouldn't come back because of the tent. I wonder what language you have to talk to these guys so they understand what they are being told. Seba told me he would wait for the boat to come back then, that meant, waiting for 5 hours and loosing the day. I didn't want to wait that much as the weather still looked good despite the little rain so I did the paper work to cross towards Argentina.

After doing the paper work and having some lunch, I got ready to start the 22 kilometers pedaling-hiking towards Laguna del Desierto, where I should be before 6 when the only boat of the day departs towards the road that leads to El Chalten. When I was about to leave, another Carabinero showed up and looked up at the mountain and said the unexpected; “it snowing up there, are you going to go uphill now? You should think about it, a storm is coming”. A storm is coming, it sounded like Winter is Coming. It was 1 pm and still I was at the carabineros. After a small chat I decided I would just face the storm and try to make my way towards the Argentinian border and the Gendarmeria, how bad could a storm be if it was so clear and bright in the morning?. I said goodbye to Seba and agreed on meeting 2 days later at El Chalten, took my bike and left.

The riding began pretty well, but after around 100 meters I was forced to go down the bike and start pushing for what it would be 5 kilometers in a really bad road going uphill. After something like half an hour the rain became snow and rain and temperature started to drop as I was going upwards. On the way up I started to meet people who were coming towards the Chilean side, all of them cheered me up because I was about to reach some more flatty area. When I got to some rideable part of the rain and snow became only snow. Huge snowflakes would fall and would start covering the landscape around me really slowly. I started to meet cyclists who were coming towards the Chilean side, all of them told me that with such a weather it was not recommendable to to the Argentinian side, which was a trekking next to the bike. The so feared trek everybody spoke about. Once again, people would tell me to think about doing what I needed to do in order to reach Laguna del Desierto.

The snowing got thicker and at some point I would not see further than 10 metres away. At least I was able to see the road. I don't think I have seen snowing like this in years, probably since I was in norway. Despite everything, I was having such a fun under the snow that I kept with the pedaling till I entered a forest where the snow wasn't that thick anymore. It was 3 pm and I still needed to reach the Argentinian border and then the Gendarmeria which was 15 kilometers away.

Finally, at 4 pm, I reached the border, good bye Chile, hello Argentina, fucking Argentinians man!!. The road I was riding till now, was something we can call a road, a 4x4 would be able to ride over that, but what everybody spoke about in the Argentinian side, was actually that, a trekking trail in which it was impossible to ride the bike. Also, there was no more snowing but a clear sky with a shinny sun going down. It's amazing the power of the Andes when controlling the weather. At one side a snow storm and at the other side clear blue sky.

I started the 7 kilometers hike towards the Argentinian Gendarmeria that would give me the approval to enter the country and towards the boat that would cross me through the Laguna del Desierto. It was 4 pm and I had 2 hours to do the hike with my bike. 7 kilometers in 2 hours, quite doable I thought so after the obvious picture I started the hike.

I was expecting a trekking trail, but I wasn't expecting a trekking trail in so bad conditions. After 15 minutes of the hike I faced the first problem. A small creek with a bridge made for hikers, not for bicycle tourers. The only way to cross the creek was go down, cross the creek, and go up again risking getting stuck in the mud. No other way to do it but to go in and so I did, and so I got stuck in the creek. I tried pushing the bike once, twice, three times, four times, and no success at all, it got stuck in the mud and water and all the load wouldn't help to take it out. The steep climb after the creek wouldn't help either. Damn hell, and the time still ticking. It was 4.30 and I hadn't even walked a kilometer. I had to do what I didn't want to do, take out all the gear from the bike, carry it over to a flat area, take the bike, carry it to a flat area, put all the gear on the bike, start the trek again. This took me 10 minutes. I kept on walking through uphills and downhills, trying to avoid branches on the ground, logs that would block the way, small stairs like parts that would menace with breaking my spokes and the racks and more small creeks with shitty bridges that were meant for hikers only.

I got stuck here.

It was 5 pm and I was 4 kilometers away from the Gendarmeria and the boat that would depart at 6 pm. Shit I had to rush it. I would keep on through the trekking trail avoiding more logs and branches till I reached a full mud zone of around 20 meters long. What, seriously?. Clearly some hikers had passed before me during that day, their track were still fresh on the mud and it was noticeable how someone fell while trying to cross that part. How the hell was I supposed to cross that with the bike and the 40 kilos over it?.I asked for guidance to the old gods and tried my luck. The old gods clearly forgot about me in that moment as I got mud till my knees and the bike got stuck having half the wheel under the mud. Seven hells! The bike is sinking!!! Abandon the ship! Wait, abandon the ship my ass, all what I have is over the bike. Making inhuman efforts and getting mud almost to my balls I managed to get the bike out of the mud. Gladly, (gladly?) there was a small creek after the muddy part where my shoes would get cleaned and fully wet too. A bit of the bike would get cleaned too, at least.

Mud to the knee, half the bike deep in mud, the heck man!!!

It was 5.15 and I hadn't advanced much. I was still 4 kilometers away from destination so I decided I would start trying to ride some parts in order to advance faster. All the way now was mainly downhill so it would be easier to ride over so many obstacles and so it was. The only problem with riding now, was that I had to use the brakes on all times in order to not fall or gain much speed that would certainly make me crash against a tree or fall down the hill. Slowly the trekking trail turned into a trench of around half a meter deep with walls that were quite comfortable for a hiker, but once again, not made for a bicycle with front rack and panniers. It was impossible to walk beside the bike on the same level and really difficult to pedal without damaging the panniers. Also most of the way was downhill and my brakes were not responding for some unknown reason at that moment. 5.30 pm and I was still 3 k away from destination. Shit, will I make it? I thought, the advancing was really slow but at least I was advancing way faster than before.

Suddenly, another creek and a nice steep unrideable down and up through the creek pretty similar to the one where I had gotten stuck before. 5.40 pm and I started to think I wouldn't make it to the Gendarmeria. Shit, I would have to wait for tomorrow's boat doing nothing the whole day, damn. I went down the creek and started to try to push upwards. Once, twice, three times. Once again, stuck. Hell, get the gear out of the bike once again!?. Somehow, I didn't have to, slowly, but with a lot of physical effort I managed to push the bike out of there to keep on over the trench like trail. 5.50 pm and still 2 k aways from gendarmeria, ah fuck it, I missed the boat man. I started going downhill and forgot about my not working brakes, suddenly when I needed to brake I couldn't and I almost fell to a steep cliff that ended up in a small creek down there, somehow I managed to regain control of the bike and with my feet on the ground I stopped the bike and me from falling to some painful end.

Finally 6 pm, and I missed the boat, I was still 1.5 k aways from Gendarmeria and probably the boat was starting to leave at that right moment. Fuck it, the thought of the boat leaving made angry for a moment because all that effort to reach the place on time was wasted. I took a small stop of 5 minutes to look around the place and take a couple of pictures. I kept on and the trail kept being the same till I got to see the Laguna del Desierto and back there the Fitz Roy. A really amazing picture full of autumm colors and what's that tiny spot on the lake? Ahh the damn boat that already left. From here on, I took it really easy as there was no point in rushing it to reach the gendarmería. I kept on going through the hellish trekking trail which started to get better and better. A sign that I was approaching to some sort of civilization. Finally, at .6.20, I saw a sign stating that Gendarmería was 200 meters away. From there I could see the Gendarmería post the beach and a boat on the lake, way closer than what I had seen before and on direction towards the Gendarmeria. Could it be that the boat that did the crossing?.

Fantastic view of Laguna del Desierto

As I got to the Gendarmeria post I got a better view of the lake and the beach and I spotted some people that I had previously seen on the boat crossing Lago O'higgins. Heck, we were supposed to take the same boat to cross the Laguna del Desierto. As they saw me approaching they started to jum in the air and make signs towards me. I entered the Gendarmería and made the paper work for entering the country, I asked the Gendarme when was the next boat to cross the Laguna del Desierto and he told me it hadn't arrived yet so I had to go to the beach and wait there, he hand't seen the boat coming yet. Woah, I couldn't really believe it. I got out the place and went to the beach right when the boat got to the pier. All the other hikers there started cheering on me and asked how did I make it to get there right on time for the boat. I didn't know what the hell was going on.

After all the people boarded I placed the bike on the boat and asked one of the crew at what time the boat usually left. He told me that they would leave usually around 6 but depended much on wind, weather and if there was a football match or no. Mmmmh, ok. I took a sit being still confused and the boat shipped from the pier leaving behind the Gendarmería post.

After around 10 minutes I realized that I had managed to take the damn boat to cross the Laguna del Desierto. All the effort, all the swearing, all the mud and dirt had not been in vain and for some unknown reason the boat got late. The other hikers noticed how I realized the situation and started cheering again and I just laughed at everything that happened that day. They gave me some candies to celebrate the sharp arrival to the Gendarmería and to the boat.

After 20 minutes, we were at the other side of the lake, were I found an awesome camping spot with view towards some glaciers. I said good bye to all the hikers and moved on before night because I was in need of a good fire to dry my shoes, get warm and cook after so much effort for a day. All my body ached and I needed to rest.

Such a day, with so many unexpected things. Awesome weather, rain and then thick snow, hell of trekking trails, downhills with no brakes, mud to the knee and half the bike stuck in the mud, and despite having lost all hope to get to the boat on time, I still got to the place right on time and did the crossing of the Laguna del Desierto. I ended up doing a huge fire and having a great meal at a fantastic camping spot. Everything was awesome at the end of the day after so many things.

I think it's days like this what makes bicycle touring an amazing way of traveling. You never know what will happen and how you will end up at the end of the day. After all, there is to go everywhere with some faith.

Until then.

Cheers.