As September came, also did the holidays. The well known
fiestas patrias, our national days, gave us all a whole week of holidays. My friend Maria from Germany also came to visit Chile for some days, so we teamed up and traveled a bit through the surroundings of my hometown. Among the plans we had a small tour to the Andes mountains but sadly for Maria, she picked some strong flu that made her weak and she decided it was wiser to stay in the valleys. I thought I was going to miss the mountains for the second time in this year, but Maria told me it was OK for her if I wanted to go, she would stay at my home and recover for the next week so we could continue doing things for the last days. I decided I would go because I didn't want to miss the chance of visiting The Andes and going back to my roots, hiking up the mountains. I was also feeling a strong urge that was telling me I had to go to this place. The mountains were calling and I had to go.
My friend Pablo, who would be part of the trip, doubted about going the night before because of the weather. The forecast was talking about a storm up in the mountains for our first night up there and also, that previous night in Talca, the rain would cover the city. Pablo would check the forecast for the last time and he would call me with his decision. At this point I had decided I would go no matter what the forecast was saying. Pablo called and told me he couldn't check the forecast because his computer wasn't working properly. I told him I would go anyways and after a couple of seconds he told me; "yeah, fuck it, let's go". We talked about last details and started to get ready for the next day.
The way up. First day of Mountains.
We met at mid day and bought a small bottle of rum for the coldness. It amazing the cheap alcohol you can buy around. The small bottle had 250 ml of Jamaican kind Rum. For CLP$690 you could get this gorgeous beverage and if lucky a ticket for a new liver. (CLP$690 is around €1 and around USD$1.4) As we thought about mixing with mate weed, we bought it.
 |
| Rum for around €1. Getting blind for cheap. When we smelled this thing it smelled like cheap perfume and I would keep the smell in my nose for a while. |
After 2 hours in a bus from the 80's we reached our starting point. Backpacks ready and we start walking uphill to reach the entrance of the national park Altos de Lircay. A hidden gem of our nationals parks. After 2 kilometers uphill we announced our visit to the park guard, where we were going, and the days we would spend up there. He told us about the current state of the trail and the snow levels. He also told us about the weather coming for the night and asked us if we had enough clothes. We said yes, our farewells and left.
 |
| Pablo next to the sign that marks the beginning of the trail. |
The weather was pretty nice for what the forecast had said it would be. We had a normal winter day, cloudy, kind of cold, but not noticeable when you are walking with a huge backpack. Perfect conditions for a hike up there. It was kind of tricky though. I was discussing something with Pablo while walking and we didn't notice that some clouds were right at our level. Suddenly out of nowhere a mist appeared and covered the woods. Not a thick mist, but it was noticeable and the forest took a really nice aspect. After some minutes this mist would leave us, and everything would go clear again. I couldn't help but recall the movie "The Mist" and other horror movies where a mist appears out of nowhere.
 |
| The mist. |
 |
| Part of the trail going up. |
Our walking pace was pretty good. I though Pablo would be way slower, but he was walking at a good pace. He has long legs too, he is around 193 centimeters height, so his legs can cover way more than my legs. We started seeing more and more snow spots in the forest around us, and when we got to some viewpoints we would see the top of the hills covered in snow. Behind us, black clouds, slowly coming up from the valley to the mountains.
After around 2 hours, we finally reached our camping site. A floor, a roof, but no walls. Good for the tent I had bought for my South American trip next year. The place had already two tents and the owners of the tents were there. When they saw us and we greeted, they looked kind of worried/concerned by our presence. Later we would know why. One of the guys asked us for how many days we were going to spend there and if we had enough to cover us for the night. He said it was going to be really cold. We agreed. We mounted the tent and got ready to continue walking some more.
 |
| Camping site. Floor and roof for the night. Pablo to the left trying to fix something maybe (?). |
The snow spots got bigger. The temperature went down a little bit, but the walking kept us warm. After one hour more of walking we reached the final point for that day; Mirador del Valle del Venado. A really nice spot on the way to the Descabezado Grande volcano.
The view there makes you spend more time than you should, it's quite amazing to look at the shapes and colors of the rocks in the mountains. The wind at that point is really cold too, it's not possible to spend that much time without moving because soon you start to freeze. After a while we started to see more and more clouds, a storm seemed to be coming, but we decided to stay a little bit longer, the view was too cool to leave so soon.
 |
| Viewpoint Valle del Venado. You can't see the volcano because of the clouds. To the far right the Valle del Venado. |
The way back was faster with the walking, but we would stop to look at the amazing views we would face for minute, even when down from the valleys we could see clouds coming up the mountain. After around 30 minutes, something changed dramatically. The sun appeared on the horizon and surprised us with a small portion of the sky clear enough to see the sun go down. This was a pretty nice and weird view. Nice, of course, the sun going down, and the change of color from greys to reds was appreciated. But when we would look to the trees, without leaves, and the clouds behind them plus the red sun going down, we would see clouds of smoke filling the sky and trees on fire. When we looked at a mountain it looked as if a volcano had made eruption right behind it and the smoke column was going up filling the sky with a huge fire up there. In one word; amazing.
 |
| End of the day, walking towards sunset. |
 |
| Weird illusion of fire and smoke. |
We thought the clouds would go away as we got the chance to see the sunset, but soon we realized we were wrong. As son as we got to the camping site temperature dropped. More tents were being mounted beside ours and more people would spend that night with us in the shelter.
First night and the use of guerrilla techniques.
People started freezing, I never thought about making a fire but they looked concerned and started trying to make a fire. Around half an hour later they managed to start the fire. Pablo had his socks and shoes wet so we took advantage of the fire and dried his things. Suddenly one of the guys puked everything his stomach had, he complained, and puked some more. Complained again, and puked again. This time he didn't complained anymore. Soon the temperature dropped dramatically and a storm started. It was time for us to hit the tent and try to cope with the cold and the night ahead.
Pablo had his summer/beach sleeping bag and claimed his feet were freezing. I told him how we would use our backpacks to create a feet sleeping bag when I was a kid, and how warm my feet would be almost instantly after using the backpack. We both used our backpacks as feet sleeping bags and called it a good day. My feet warmed up instantly, it was 9 pm and we had our feet warm and were ready to sleep.
We tried to sleep but it was impossible. People wouldn't stop talking inside their tents, and we were able to hear everything. When finally a silence came and everybody started to fall asleep a fast zip opened and someone rushing it out made us all alert again. The puking guy again. After a couple of hours people got finally silent but Murphy's law is always present. At 1.30 am, sharp, I looked at the time because I woke up, a girl started yelling at our tents pleading for help. Everybody woke up again, and the girl told us they were 5 in 2 tents, but there had been snowing so much that one of their tents collapsed because of the snow and got destroyed. Everything inside that tent, wet and covered with snow. The other tent, about to collapse too so they needed to move. There was still some space where we were so they moved all their things under the roof. Around one hour later the 5 of them managed to fit inside the 2 persons tent, or at least, I imagined that as I didn't get out my sleeping bag because it was way too cold to be outside.
At this point I realized I couldn't have my face outside the sleeping bag, otherwise it would freeze. It was so cold that my face couldn't resist too much not being covered. Pablo was awake too and said he was freezing so he decided to use another jacket and also covered his face completely. Our feet, still warm, the backpack technique is a real good technique against the cold. Having the feet warm, at least for me, it's the only must I need in order to sleep. The rest of my body can be cold and I still will manage to sleep, but if my feet are cold, I can not sleep at all. We managed to fall asleep again.
Little before 5 am, I woke up again, this time, my whole body was cold. My feet?, still inside the backpack, but now, freezing cold, I couldn't feel them so I had to touch them with my hands to check they were still there. Shit, it was really cold!!. Still in darkness I couldn't do much really. Pablo noticed I was moving and told me he was freezing and awake. Some minutes later we would hear whispers from the other tents about how damn cold it was. Everybody was awake, it was too cold to sleep and we still had 3 hours to get some sun.
When finally some light appeared we noticed half of the tent was covered in snow and that the roof of the shelter worked only partially. I took a water bottle I had for the night and surprise, frozen. Still no sun rays to get up though, so leaving the tent wasn't a priority. Camping behind a mountain to get protection from the wind has its drawbacks too. The sun rays don't hit you right after dawn because of the shadow of the mountain. People was awake but wouldn't move, just whisper. Too much cold, I needed some warm sun rays, so I decided to get up and move.
I recalled this guy from Oslo who lived a whole year in the woods. He told me how in order to get warm during winter, he forced himself to go out the tent and run to get warm. I manned up and got out the sleeping bag and the tent and started moving.
 |
| Right before going to the tent, first night. |
Damn it, that was cold!
Surprise!. Everything in the landscape changed through the night. It didn't snow that much, but still everything was white and covered with snow. Everything changed and we would be in the same place but looking at a completely different landscape. It snowed around 40 centimeters. Enough to destroy a tent I suppose. I was amazed by the landscape but still needed some sun so I took a small hike to reach some warm rays.
 |
| Our camping site after the first night. |
I reached a nice spot with sunlight and a girl was coming back from a walk. I found out she was the girl asking for help last night. She told me it was the first time she was there for the winter and that it was the first time ever for her 4 friends. They wanted to go to the beach but she convinced them to go to the mountains. They were so mad at her because they wanted to have a great time but had it awful and were going to leave that morning. I guess the mountains are not for everyone.
I headed back to camp and found Pablo getting warm under the sun too, we started making breakfast and soon the rest of the people would get up too. The guys who had the collapsed tent soon got up with a noticeable "I hate this place" face and soon left. After they left I would understand why the guys who were there in the first place looked concerned about us too.
One of the guys came out with a device and he claimed inside their tent they had -11,4ºC around 4.30 am. So after some talking and discussion they agreed that under open sky there could have been around -15ºC. After this claim, one of the guys complained and laughed about people not using the right equipment and just going there to drink alcohol, they had a name for that kind of people; the Melvins. Melvin is the name of a popular summer drink made of melon and wine (therefore the name), sugar and ice. You drink it directly from the melon with a straw so it's refreshing for summer days.He said it was really necessary to have the right boots and pants, first layer, good jacket, etc. With Pablo we weren't really wearing things for the snow and didn't share that much the opinion, so we decided it was time to leave and go hike up a mountain.
 |
| Leaving camp. Back there the hill we wanted to hike. |
 |
| Leaving camp for the day. |
No food, no water.
Damn it it was cold last night, we were discussing with Pablo as we were walking to climb the Fraile hill. -15ºC and a bit of snow, yeah, but maybe more than -15ºC, I have no way to prove it though.
I was quite amazed of the tent, never thought it would resist such temperatures and the snow. Also our sleeping bags did a nice job, mine is -2ºC to 8ºC and Pablo's in a beach sleeping bag, probably 5ºC to 15ºC. Really cool we managed the coldness. Suddenly after a bit more of half an hour we noticed we had forgotten food and water. Still, the hill was right in front of us and didn't think it would take us too long. We had decided not to go to another higher place mainly because Pablo didn't have good shoes for the snow, as I had been up there several times I decided it was much better to climb a closer hill than going to the planned place for the trip, the Enladrillado. Therefore, the Fraile looked a nice option. We thought about going back for food and water, but that would be too long to then go back again and start the climb. We decided we would reach the summit anyways.
 |
| The Fraile hill near us. |
Soon I realized the reflection of the sun in the snow was tanning our skin and if we didn't use anything we would got bad sun burns. As we forgot to bring food and water, we also forgot to use sun cream. We had nothing else so I thought about the guys in the desert covering their whole body to protect themselves from the sun rays. We did the same. After all, this was a white desert.
 |
| Ready for the hike up. |
I had never done summit in this hill but I kind of knew the way. The guys back at camp warned us about crossing one creek. From the distance I could see two creeks. As there was no trail to follow because of the snow and the storm last night I decided it would be much easier just to guide myself by the summit and a bit of instinct, like in my old times.
In order to reach the summit we had to cross two small creeks, as the snow covered everything it wasn't easy to spot a good place to cross them, so guided by instinct I decided to follow some foxes tracks we had seen in the way. I was right, the foxes tracks lead us well. The first time to an easier crossing spot, the second time, also to an easy crossing, but for someone the size and weight of the fox, not Pablo's size. It was a tree covered in snow that worked as a bridge over the creek. Somehow I managed to cross with no major issues. Pablo had it harder, his size would be a problem fighting with the branches trying not to break any main branch and maintaining balance. After some minutes, he managed anyways.
 |
| Follow the fox! |
 |
| Using trees to cross the creek. |
After 1 1/2 of slow walking through the snow, thirst hit. We had forgotten our water, and Pablo was really needing some water, the only option we had was to eat snow. Pablo was dubious because the people last night had been talking how bad it is to eat snow and how, probably, the reason of the puke for this guy was that he ate snow. To be honest, I always eat snow when I can and I know that if I eat too much or drink too much water from the snow I will get sick, but I don't think small amounts will do any damage. I told Pablo to melt small amounts of snow in his mouth, and once melted, drink it, I told him not to do it too often and with big amounts, but just what he needed. We both did so.
We kept walking and the mountain started giving us our prize. The views got awesome. We still had around 40 minutes to reach the summit, so we had a small rest and kept moving.
 |
| Resting point. |
We were both hungrier and thirstier than before and were already talking about what would be good to eat right in that moment. The more we talked about food the more hungrier we would go, but at least the talk made the walk easier thinking about the food we would eat once back in the tent.
Summit.
Reaching summits will never get old, the realization that you are able to get all the way up is amazing. The view at those points makes me want to climb the hill in front, and the mountains back there, and that other one, and so on. From the summit of this hill it is possible to see the
Descabezado Grande volcano and the
Quizapu volcano. This made me remember the last time I went to the
Descabezado. That time I went with some friends but we couldn't reach summit because a cloud covered us and we started freezing, literally. After 2 minutes being covered by the cloud I recall the drop in temperature was dramatic. I tried to talk but I couldn't because my muscles wouldn't react. We decided we had to go back or pay the price.
From the summit of the Fraile I could see the
Descabezado. It was like the volcano was tempting me to go to its side and climb it. Peaceful, with clear skies, reminding me about the last time I couldn't reach the summit. It tempted me, so much, that I took a decision right there. I will go earlier from Santiago with my bike in order to climb it. I will depart before January towards Talca, will summon the same friends I was with last time we tried to do summit, and this time, will reach the summit with them, or at least with the ones that have the time to do it and manage to get to the top.
 |
| Pablo to the left and me to the right. Back there Descabezado grande and Quizapu. |
The way down from the summit of the Fraile was easier and faster, the snow made it really easy to go down and sometimes we could even run. In around 1 1/2 hour we were already back at camp, thirsty, hungry, tired, but happy for the summit and ready to eat all the food and drink all the water we could.
Are you just wearing jeans guys?
We ate, we drank and we dried our cloths with the help of the nuclear and the fire it provided us. Soon the rest of the people arrived to camp from their days and started doing the same. After some talking finally what we were expecting with Pablo arrived. The guy who looked worried/concerned when we got to the place in the first day asked us a question: "Are you just wearing jeans guys? Don't you have thermal trousers? What about the over-boots and snow jacket?" Pablo looked at him and I replied "this is the way we roll over here mate" and continue with the drying of my jeans next to the nuclear, nothing else was said about it. From what we could reckon afterwards the guy couldn't understand how we were still there with no "proper" equipment for the situation. He couldn't understand how Pablo was wearing his city sport shoes and still be able to do a summit in the snow. How the first layer was simple sleeping clothes and tons of more cloths over the body. Well, actually, this is the way we roll and how I started walking in the Andes range when I was kid. No proper gear, just some bunch of things I could find at home and to the mountains we go. That's how I got to the Volcano several times and have been doing summits around the area.
Third night and back to the city.
The third night wasn't as cold as the first one, still I woke up at 4 am and couldn't sleep anymore because of the cold. Pablo woke up a bit later and we started talking till dawn. At 7.30 I stepped out of the tent and waited for the sun rays to hit the camping spot. We had to leave latest at 11 am in order to catch the midday bus towards the city.
 |
| Drying our clothes and sleeping bag. |
The morning went away fast, packing and drying took most of our time that morning. Once ready we said our farewells to our camping neighbors and left. I don't know why but every time I go up this national park, the way back seems to be way longer than the way up. Pablo also noticed this. He didn't realize it was such a long distance but now, on the way back, knowing we were supposed to take the bus, he found out we had walked quite a bit into the Andes. He wondered also how much we had walked the previous day and how far the summit of the hill we did was.
 |
| The way back. |
Soon after some more walking we reached the checkpoint with the park guard and finally the bus. Usually the bus driver just checks if someone is walking down the mountain, if nobody is coming or if he can not see anyone, he just leaves, even if it is not the time to leave yet. Lucky for us, this time, wasn't like those times in which I had to hitch hike my way back to Talca.
It's all about attitude.
On the way back we had time to talk a bit about the gear topic. I think gear can be helpful, and a lot, but this doesn't mean that if we don't have the proper gear then we can not do anything at all and have a cool adventure. It relies a lot on the attitude. Pablo didn't have anything proper at all, normal clothes, normal shoes, a totally not proper sleeping bag, the tent wasn't meant to be used in such temperatures, still, everything worked as a charm. We felt cold, yes, but the rest of the people also felt the cold. They had first layers, we also had them, pajamas.They had second and third layers, we did too, our cotton t-shirts, wool sweater and jeans. They had fourth layer, we did too! Our wind stoppers. For sleeping? all of the previous plus scarf and wool hat and our sleeping bags.
I think the right gear will save you and help you in harsh conditions, but with no proper attitude you won't even get to the place. After all, from my point of view, the attitude it's the most important thing when going for an adventure. Pablo proved it. For him, this was his first time camping in the snow. His second time in this national park but first time during winter/spring. He was dubious about going because of the weather, but at last time he said, "fuck it, let's go there". The right attitude made us have a blast of a time up there. I got what I wanted, inspiration for another adventure and a decision of when to depart from Santiago. He got more than he thought he would get and at some point while we were walking towards the bus he told me; "you know what? this was a fucking awesome experience, I will invest in a better sleeping bag". For me this means he wants to continue doing these things, which is pretty awesome. Another man who will convert to the mountains and the adventure, because after all, it's all about the attitude rather than the gear. Maybe I'll invite him to climb up the volcano, although those are major words, it's not 3 days but 5. Way harder than this, but with the right attitude, hell it is possible. I just hope this time no cloud cover us and stop us from doing summit.
 |
| Descabezado Grande, I'm going for you in January! |
